Any and every kind of leftover can go inside a warm tortilla, usually with a healthy dose of pickled jalapenos. I can always sniff out a late-night snacker when the aroma of tortillas heating in a hot pan on the stove comes wafting through the house. Today’s tacos are more purposeful a deliberate meal instead of a secretive midnight snack! First, I marinate the chicken briefly in a spicy paste of ancho chile powder, oregano, cumin, and sweet orange juice while the grill is heating. You can also use this time to prepare the taco toppings. Grill the chicken, then let it rest while you warm the tortillas. Now you are ready to assemble the tacos and dig in. The whole meal comes together in about 30 minutes! The ancho chiles I use in the marinade are named for their wide shape. They are large, have a deep reddish brown color when dried, and are mild in flavor with just a hint of heat. You can find ancho chile powder at any markets that sell Mexican ingredients, or online. I like to put all the toppings in little bowls on a big platter at the center of the table: avocados, radishes, tomatoes, red onions, wedges of lime, and a sour cream sauce. I add arugula, as well—this green isn’t traditional for tacos, but we always seem to have some in the fridge and I think it adds a nice green crunch to the tacos. Everyone can grab a warm tortilla from the pile and make their own tacos just they way they like them. You could also easily double or even triple this recipe for a larger party. A taco and a cold beer on a warm day? Now that’s living!

2 tablespoons ancho chili powder 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried cumin 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest 3 tablespoons fresh-squeezed orange juice 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 to 6 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (1 1/4 pounds)

To serve:

8 small corn tortillas 3 cups packed baby arugula (3 ounces) 2 medium ripe avocados, sliced 4 radishes, thinly sliced 1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, halved 1/4 red onion, thinly sliced Roughly chopped cilantro 1/2 cup sour cream 1/4 cup milk 1 lime, cut into wedges

Set aside to marinate while the grill heats and you prepare the rest of the toppings. Wrap warmed tortillas in a tea towel to keep them warm until serving.